Harry Stemp was born in Uxbridge in 1934. He started his career with the Uxbridge Times-Journal as an apprentice typesetter at age 14. He soon began writing sports for the Times-Journal and eventually owned 10 community newspapers in central Ontario including the Times-Journal. He started writing his award-winning Stemp’s Stew in 1965. The column came to an end shortly after he sold his newspaper chain in 1989, but was rejuvenated in 2006 when Harry became a regular contributor to The Cosmos.
On the rails in Africa
There is an old saying that if it doesn’t rain – it pours. After spending a long time visiting Dubai and Malaysia last fall I figured that was enough major trips for a long while. Settle down and take a rest. Life doesn’t always work that way. A trip that was right at the top of my bucket list was to visit Cape Town, South Africa and board the beautifully restored Rovus Rail ‘Pride of Africa’ train and travel 6000K through the middle of the continent ending in Dar es Salaam on the west coast. Often a long waiting list for this trip so when I received a call saying there had been a cancellation I didn’t have to think twice. At my age I have watched friends continually ignore opportunities like this only to be hit with bad health or even death, putting an end to their dreams.
So I booked and after 24 hours travelling we finally landed in Cape Town and enjoyed three days exploring the sights in this area such as Table Top Mountain (yes, it was a clear day), Cape of Good Hope, the beautiful winery area and even, in small groups, visited the modest homes of Cape Town residents. Our hostess ran a cooking school in her home and was known as the top samosa maker in Cape Town. I was intimidated trying it out, but with her expert guidance became a professional in no time. Her young daughters sat on the staircase and watched these strangers from halfway around the world enjoy their mother’s talents. Getting away from the tourist traps and chatting with real people is always enjoyable.
On January 26 we bussed to the railway station. Here we were greeted royally by Rovus Rail owner Rohan Vos and then walked the red carpet into the terminal where he explained how he went from operating a very successful auto parts business to owning this huge railway operation. Vos loved rail travel so much he decided to buy a few old rail cars, remodel them into luxurious rail cars he could attach to trains allowing his family to discover Africa in style. However he found dealing with the South African Transport Services administration so complicated, he soon realized he needed to be self-sufficient, so he purchased a 1938 locomotive from a scrap metal dealer in Johannesburg. The engine was rebuilt and named Bianca after his eldest daughter. From that small beginning Rovus Rail has grown to be one of the most luxurious private rail companies in the world. Our journey from Cape Town to Dar es Salaam covered 6000 kilometers in a style that can be compared to any 5-star hotel in the world. Gourmet menus in period dining cars and listening to historian Nicholas Schofield give interesting talks on his beloved Africa; one can understand why this journey is sold out on a regular basis.
We left the train daily and took excursions through some of the most interesting and historic areas of this part of the world. A visit to the Big Hole at the now closed Kimberley diamond mines, stopping along the way to watch an estimated 23,000 Lesser Flamingos resting on a large lake was an amazing sight. A visit to the Rovus Rail Station to see a multitude of classic engines and rail cars in the process of being restored down to the smallest detail was a treat none of us expected – but appreciated.
The one thing I did expect – not sure why – was that we would see countless numbers of wild animals as we travelled the rails. Not to be. Other than a couple of baboons and a few monkeys sitting on a bank overlooking our rail car, that was the extent of our sightings. So our two nights at the TAU Game Lodge took care of that for us. Here, in this beautiful lodge, our accommodation overlooked a large watering hole and it was not unusual to see all kinds of animals arrive for a drink. Elephants, a rhino, wart hogs, hyenas, deer, crocodiles and a large variety of beautiful birds were enjoyed from the comfort of our deck.
Two Safaris a day (early morning and late afternoon) in all-terrain vehicles brought us closer to the wildlife that inhabits this part of the world. Watched as wild dogs skilfully hunted down a small deer. The pack went to bed with full stomachs. Getting close as a lion cub enjoyed a meal from the teats of the mother. She and her female partner had killed a large water buffalo and while the young were feeding, the partner protected their food supply.
Scariest moment came when we ventured upon a number of elephants crossing the road ahead of us. They ignored us for the most part until a baby elephant arrived followed by mommy who took exception to our vehicle being too close to the herd. She made a quick left turn and headed right for us. Luckily she stopped a few feet short, stared at us and realizing we were not a threat, walked away.
Such were the wonderful adventures of driving through this huge protected game park. I say protected but the rhino population has a tough time of it. Poachers are a problem as rhino tusks bring big bucks for these poachers who often enter this monstrous game reserve by helicopter. In the last year 21 rhinos have been slaughtered for their horns. Our guide told us unless something can be done to control the poachers, rhinos could become extinct in a few short years.
Early one morning we were able to watch as a female lion stalked a herd of zebras and water buffalo. Fascinating to view the hunting skills of the lioness as she stayed downwind to cover her scent. Suddenly she made a lightning move, but the alert herd were quick to spot the enemy and stampeded, foiling the attempt which would have been fatal for one of the animals. Undaunted, the lioness walked aimlessly back into the cooling shade of a small bush, gave a couple of huge yawns, rolled over and proceeded to have a sleep.
Such is life in the jungle, and the huge reserve offers visitors the opportunity to see these beautiful animals in their natural habitat. The two days at the lodge are counted as just one of the many highlights of this amazing journey which is not over yet. There is more to tell, but space is limited. Another Stew perhaps!
